Gaol House Rock

Yesterday we went to Kilmainham Gaol. “Gaol” is a old funny way of spelling jail. Kilmainham is a super interesting 19th century complex in which many an Irish revolutionary was kept. 

Probably the most heartwrenching story we heard on the tour was of Joseph Plunkett and Grace Gifford. Plunkett was part of the Easter Rising in 1916. After the revolt failed, he was sentenced to death. He asked to be allowed to marry his sweetheart, Grace Gifford, before he was executed. Just a few hours before he was put to death, they were married in the chapel of the prison. Only the couple, the priest, and the soldiers acting as Plunkett’s guards were present. After the ceremony, Plunkett was taken back to his cell. Gifford was allowed to see him one more time, for just a few minutes, before he was executed by firing squad. She never remarried.

Plunkett’s story, and the stories of the other men executed after the Easter Rising, helped shaped public opinion and eventually led to the creation of the Irish free state. 

It was also really interesting to learn about the conditions of jails in the 1800s, the crimes for which people were incarcerated, the demographics of the Irish prison population in the 19th and 20th centuries, and the significance of reformed jails during the period. During the famine, some people even purposefully committed crimes because they knew they would at least be fed in jail. Young children were also frequently jailed for crimes like theft.

We also visited the decorative arts and history branch of the National Museum of Ireland. The exhibits really painted a clearer picture of how the Irish have lived through different periods. There were exhibits on silverwork, coins and medals, school books, even furniture and clothing. (I always find the latter two particularly fascinating because unlike a sculpture or a painting, they’re actually used and worn and have to serve a function apart from, but still in harmony with, their aesthetic.) It was very interesting to see the balance between outside influences from places like Britain and America and the Celtic traditions of Ireland. 

I should have pictures from the Kilmainham Gaol and the National Museum up on Facebook in the next couple days. Tomorrow, we’re going to the Dáil to get our staff badges and a tour of the complex. More to come on that.